How to Replace Your RV Microwave with a Regular Convection Microwave (Step-by-Step)
When your RV microwave quits, meals and travel rhythm take a hit. Ours failed a couple of weeks into a trip, and we faced a choice: pay RV-specific prices or make a budget swap work. Here’s how we replaced it with a store-bought 0.9 cubic feet unit, reused the original brackets and spacers, and got back to hot meals without breaking the bank.
The Microwave Breakdown: What Happened to Ours
RV life throws these hiccups at you often. Our microwave’s buttons stopped responding, it wouldn’t power on, and nothing lit up. We unplugged it, flipped the breaker, and lived without it for two weeks while we sorted a plan.
- No lights
- No power
- Total shutdown
We kept it safe by unplugging and switching off the breaker right away.
Why We Chose a Budget Replacement Over RV-Specific Models
We looked at RV microwaves with built-in brackets. The 0.9 cubic feet versions cost $150 to $250. Camping World didn’t have a budget-friendly option that matched our size, so we bought a standard 0.9 cubic feet microwave from a local store for about $50 to $60. We kept the brackets from the old unit to secure it. We also saved over $100 by going non-RV specific.
Picking the Right Size Microwave from the Store
We grabbed a 0.9 cubic feet model. The first one we tried was too small, so we returned it and chose a slightly bigger version that slid in neatly.
Steps for measuring before you buy:
- Measure the cabinet opening width.
- Measure depth from the back wall to the trim.
- Measure height, including any trim or face frame.
Measuring Tips for a Perfect Fit
Use a tape measure on the existing cabinet space and the old unit. Double-check measurements so you only shop once.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
- Screwdriver, for tiny factory screws on brackets
- Self-tapping screws, for mounting brackets on the new unit, if needed (self-tapping screws)
- Power drill, helpful but optional if you have self-tappers (compact power drill)
- Microwave, a simple unit works, a convection model is a nice upgrade (convection microwave option)
Step 1: Safely Removing the Old Microwave
Turn off the breaker and unplug the unit. Ours was held by four screws, one at each corner. After removing those, it slid out. We found spacers and holding brackets that kept it snug while driving. Hang on to these parts, they’re key for road safety.
Dealing with the Brackets and Spacers
We removed the tiny screws holding the spacers and brackets. It only took a few minutes. Look for:
- Metal spacers
- Corner brackets
- Small mounting screws
Preparing the New Microwave for Installation
Unbox the new unit and check for damage. Our plan was to reuse the original brackets and spacers. The new microwave had no pre-drilled holes, so we needed to attach hardware to the outer casing.
Step 2: Mounting the Brackets on the New Microwave
We used self-tapping screws, working slowly so we didn’t go too deep. Most microwaves have a small gap between the inner box and the outer shell, which helps avoid puncturing the interior.
- Align the bracket where you need it.
- Drive the self-tapper slowly until snug.
- Check for wobble and adjust.
Test stability before you slide it in.
Overcoming No-Hole Challenges
Aim for the casing edges where the metal is flat. Don’t force it; measure twice so the bracket lines up with the cabinet holes.
Sliding the New Microwave into Place
We pushed it into the cabinet and it fit, but there was a noticeable gap on the sides and top. We used the spacers to bring it closer. The bottom of the new microwave wasn’t flat like the old one, so we made small tweaks to get it stable.
Handling Fit Issues Like Gaps and Alignment
We were off by about an inch on the first try and had to drill a new hole for alignment. Lining up with the lower cabinet edge first helped.
Common fixes:
- Shim with spacers for side gaps
- Check level before final screws
Securing Everything Without the Top Spacer
We skipped the top spacer because the gap was too large to help. Side gaps looked odd, but we can fill them with trim later. Bottom spacers were enough to hold it securely.
Step 3: Wiring and Powering Up
Feed the cord through the side and plug it into the upper outlet. Reinstall the holding screws. Ours didn’t rattle much, but we’ll keep an eye on it during travel.
Quick checklist:
- Cord tucked and clear of heat
- All screws tight
- No loose trim or hardware
Why Skip a Full Drill for Some Steps
Self-tapping screws handled most of the work, which saved time and space in a small RV setup.
Testing the Installation with the Generator
We turned on the generator and flipped the breaker. The display lit up, the buttons worked, and it heated food properly. Great news, full power restored! Watch for odd noises or smells on the first run.
Monitoring for Road Travel
Check the unit after your first drive. Brackets and spacers make all the difference on bumpy roads.
Common Challenges and How We Fixed Them
- Wrong size: Return and swap for a better fit.
- No mounting holes: Use self-tappers and go slow.
- Alignment off: Re-drill and line up with the bottom edge.
- Uneven bottom: Use spacers to stabilize.
For more ideas on mounting approaches, this forum discussion on removing RV microwaves is helpful.
Time and Effort: Is It Worth the DIY?
It took about 30 minutes with a few tweaks. If you buy a perfect fit, it goes even faster. You can save a chunk of cash by skipping RV-branded models and reusing your hardware.
Pro Tips for Faster Installs
Pre-fit your brackets and mark holes before you drive a single screw.
Why a Convection Microwave Works Great in RVs
A convection unit can heat, bake, and crisp in one appliance. It’s a smart upgrade for small RV kitchens.
Final Thoughts on RV Appliance Upgrades
This simple swap brought our kitchen back to life at a low cost. If your RV microwave dies, try a standard unit and reuse your brackets. Want more RV tips and projects? Subscribe to our channel on YouTube, and follow along on Instagram. Travelers, you can also check out Starlink for RV internet and plan stays with Harvest Hosts.
